It’s bustling. It’s loud. It’s overflowing with tasty treats no matter the time of day. Literally translated as “prosperous corner”, Mong Kok is aptly named.
Smack in the heart of the Kowloon Peninsula, Mong Kok is home to some of the most vibrant markets, unique small businesses and countless affordable foods. In short, this busy neighbourhood offers a wide range of activities and goods– either for free or next to nothing! Plus, it’s super easy to get to from Hong Kong’s airport.
So, from street eats of Food and Wine and Anthony Bourdain fame to the very best deals in the S.A.R., don’t leave Mong Kok off your itinerary.
1. Go market hopping
If there is one thing Mong Kok champions in Hong Kong, it’s hosting the most unique markets.
Boasting more than 100 stalls selling kitschy bargain souvenirs and accessories, the famed Ladies’ Market is a touristy treasure trove—especially if you’re good at bargaining.
Ladies Market spans about 1 kilometer along Tung Choi Street. It got its name as ladies’ clothes and accessories were the main products sold on this street. However, the selection has since expanded to include all kinds of things, such as kitchenware, shoes and more.
Got a green thumb? Find anything from affordable houseplants and gardening tools at Flower Market while aquarists should head to the Goldfish Market. Sneakers Street near Fa Yuen Street is lined with dozens of big and small shoe shops.
Moko Bridge offers a nice vantage point for Fa Yuen Street Market, which is the most Instagrammable in the evening.
Pro Tip: Head on over to adjoining Yau Ma Tei to check out the iconic Temple Street Market. It comes alive by night.
2. Get your ailments cured at a herbal tea shop
Former home to Lui Leung, the late businessman and one of the founders of Kowloon Motor Bus Company, and his family, Lui Seng Chun is a Grade I historic building named after a Chinese bone-setting shop on the ground floor.
The four-story tong lau, or Hong Kong shophouse, was built in the 1930s with a mixture of Art Deco and classical elements. It’s one of the few remaining pre-war architectures of its kind in Hong Kong. The curved balustrade and deep veranda make it stand out among neighbouring buildings.
The ground floor now houses a herbal tea shop and a small exhibition on the history of the building. The ground floor is open to the public while the rest of the buildings— now a part of the School of Chinese Medicine of Hong Kong Baptist University— is accessible by joining one of the free guided tours.
3. Bargain and shop till you drop
Mong Kok is a favourite of Hong Kong youth when it comes to shopping. In fact, the district boasts its own subculture known as “MK fashion”, referring to the area’s distinctive style. Characterised by a bold and sometimes flashy aesthetic, Mong Kok is to Hong Kong what Harajuku is to Tokyo.
T.O.P. and Langham Place are for higher-end street fashions, while Argyle Centre is a locally styled shopping mall for cheaper finds.
Meanwhile, Sin Tat Plaza is a hub for all smartphone-related accessories and cheap second-hand cell phones. If you don’t want to venture out to Sham Shui Po to the famed Golden Computer Centre, this is a great option.
4. Hunt for cheap street eats
If there is a new street-food trend in Hong Kong, Mong Kok is probably the first place to sell it. Or if you’re looking for a traditional snack that’s vanishing, Mong Kok might be your best bet, too.
Some of the highlights include Fei Jie’s braised pig’s intestine (also featured on the late Anthony Bourdain’s show), Potato King’s 25-centimetre-long fries, and dessert shop am.pm’s lava souffle pudding—a combination of two layers of souffle pancake and a lava pudding. Meanwhile, noodles with mixed toppings in a plastic bag are also a local specialty– and have even been featured in a recipe by Hong Kong-born-and-raised chef Lucas Sin in none other than Food and Wine magazine.
5. Feast on Hong Kong’s best pineapple bun
Speaking of traditional snacks, the pineapple bun is the crowning jewel of Chinese pastries. Yes, we said it!
Whatever your stance, you’ve got to try a Hong Kong-style pineapple bun at least once, and there’s no better venue than Kam Wah– a humble cha chaan teng boasting decades of history– to do it. Make sure to order yours with the customary slab of butter, which costs a few bucks extra.
Otherwise, Kam Wah is also an excellent place to try Hong Kong-stlye French toast while you’re in the area. Both sweet treats will set you back under HK$20.00. A pretty great deal in the world’s most unaffordable city!
6. Bask in the light of neon signs
Neon is a dying art in Hong Kong. To witness its fast fading glory, head to Changsha Street in Mong Kok, where the Gam Lai Gung Karaoke Night Club signs cast a bright purple light over the corner.
Otherwise, an evening walk along the Mong Kok section of Nathan Road, a major avenue in Kowloon, yields some of the best technicolour views of Hong Kong. Witness the panoply of LED-powered signs here.
The 3.6 km main street cutting through the heart of Kowloon is flanked by glitzy malls and low-hanging street signs. The road lies on top of multiple MTR stations.
Our recommendation is to take a bus tour to get the best sights.
7. Step back in time with tong lau buildings
While Lui Seng Chun (#2 on our list) is a well-renovated example of Hong Kong’s pre-war architecture, most tong lau in Hong Kong are less glamourous, resembling the “Monster Buildings” in Quarry Bay.
Kam Lam Street is flanked by old rainbow-coloured buildings.
Some of the oldest tong lau in the territory can be found along Shanghai Street and Argyle Street.
8. Eat congee
What’s your convalescent meal of choice?
For Hongkongers, it’s congee or juk. This thick, Cantonese-style porridge is done best by Mui Kee, a stall located within Mong Kok’s cooked food centre at 557 Shanghai Street.
An easy choice is the famous fish congee, which you must order with a side of crispy youtiao.
9. Upgrade your kitchenware
What Kappabashi is to Tokyo, Shanghai Street is to Hong Kong. In other words, if you’re looking for high quality yet affordable kitchenware with a personal touch, you’ll want to make a pitstop or two along Mong Kok’s Shanghai Street.
For knives, cleavers, and wooden chopping boards, beeline to Chan Chi Kee, located at G/F, 316-318 Shanghai Street. This is another spot with Anthony Bourdain’s stamp of approval: the late chef bought a knife here when he filmed his show ‘The Layover’ in Hong Kong.
10. Visit 618 Shanghai Street, a gorgeous, revitalised complex in Mong Kok
Mong Kok’s history goes way back– and the beautifully restored 618 Shanghai Street complex is a great place to dive into it. Besides nostalgic architecture, you’ll find plenty of swanky lifestyle shops with a local emphasis. Nice for souvenirs!
The area first grew popular way back in the 1920s, when there were ferry piers at either end of the street, namely the Mong Kok Ferry Pier and Jordan Road Ferry Piers. Boat-dwellers headed to Shanghai Street to purchase daily necessities, leading to the development of various shops vending everything from tea and tobacco to bicycles.
Frequently asked questions
Can I get around Mong Kok on foot?
Yes! The area, though dense, is not especially large. You’ll likely find yourself stepping into its adjoining districts of Prince Edward and Yau Ma Tei.
How do I access the area via MTR?
Take the MTR to Mong Kok station. You could also take the MTR to Prince Edward, and walk the length of Nathan Road to get the full Kowloon experience.
This post was originally published in September 2019. Updated in June 2024.
