For a long time, Ma Wan was Hong Kong’s overlooked Island. Literally, it’s the island that you look down upon as you cross the huge Tsing Ma Bridge on your way to and from the airport. While it doesn’t pull in the crowds that head to Chung Chau or Peng Chau every weekend, Ma Wan is home to a few of its own hidden gems.
Getting to Ma Wan
By ferry
From Central
The ferry is by far the easiest option if you’re coming from Central. The ferry leaves from pier 2 roughly every 30 minutes during weekday rush hour, and hourly at half past the hour during the day and at weekends.
A complete timetable can be found on the
Park Island Transport Company website.
The fare is HK$36.00 and you can pay using Octopus or cash. Over-65s pay HK$18.00, and Octopus cards registered to residents of Park Island are only charged HK$24.10 (HK$12.10 for over 65s).
From Tsuen Wan
There are three ferries a day each way between Ma Wan and Tsuen Wan Pier – directly outside exit D of Tsuen Wan West MTR. They depart Tsuen Wan at 10:35a.m., 1:35p.m. and 4:35p.m.
The ferry from Ma Wan to Tsuen Wan departs at 10:15a.m., 1:15p.m. and 4:15p.m.
The standard fare is HK$12.00, half price for over-65s,and discounted rates for Park Island residents.
By Bus
Park Island Transport Company operates bus services from:
- Tsing Yi Mtr Station: route NR330
- Kwai Fong MTR station: route NR332
- Hong Kong Airport: route NR334 departing from the coach stop at car park 1
- Central ferry pier 2, via Wan Chai: route NR338
Full timetables and fares can be found here.
Getting around Ma Wan
Once you’re on the island, you really only have one choice. You’re walking: cars are more-or-less banned from the island. Luckily, there are plenty of maps dotted around to help you out.
Eating and drinking on Ma Wan
There are a few restaurants around the ferry pier, Mo-Ikken Cafe looks like a Japanese restaurant on the outside, but serves mainly Chinese food, little Seoul does a better job of living up to its name, with a good selection of Korean dishes.
There are more Western options at Ma Wan Tung Wan Beach,including a pizza joint, and a vaguely germanic-looking bar and grill.
Things to do in Ma Wan
Visit Ma Wan 1868
Ma Wan 1868 has contributed to the reinvention of Ma Wan as a destination. The site was an abandoned fishing village, inaccessible to the public.
Now the old houses, which were crumbling, have been fixed up and are home to a growing number of small independent businesses. There is a small “city farm”, and a huge array of street art to enjoy.
Relax on Ma Wan Tung Wan Beach
In all honesty, it’s not Hong Kong’s most beautiful beach, but Tung Wan has a certain charm. Every few minutes you’ll hear a strange rumbling noise. This is the Tung Chung MTR line and the Airport Express, which runs underneath the roadway of the Tsing Ma Bridge, which in turn towers over the island. Otherwise, this is a nice quiet spot to share with the locals.
See the Tin Hau Temples
Tin Hau is the goddess who looks out for seafarers and fishermen. Depending on who you ask, there are something like 150 Tin Hau temples in Hong Kong. Three of them are on Ma Wan.
There’s a small Tin Hau temple in Ma Wan 1868, originally built to serve the fishing village that used to be on the site. Another can be found right at the northern tip of Ma Wan. This temple is said to have been built by the Pirate Cheung Po Tsai, who is usually associated with Cheung Chau island.
The Tin Hau temple that appears on the tourist maps sits on a hilltop with an impressive view over the floating fishing village that sits in a bay on the Island’s west coast.
Marvel at Noah’s Ark
We should address the elephant in the room. Or rather the elephant, camels, assorted big cats and ostriches emerging from a giant replica of Noah’s Ark, which houses an evangelical Christian, creationist-themed theme park. Wedged beneath the Tsing Ma Bridge, it was built by the owners of the property developer responsible for Park Island, the residential development that dominates the northern part of the island. It was also at the centre of a high-profile corruption and bribery case in 2014, but that’s a story for another time.
Climb Ma Wan’s highest peak
South of the bridge lies a wilder, more unkempt side of Ma Wan. Here you’ll find the highest point on the island (admittedly, it’s only 69m above sea-level). If you’re up for a short hike, there are some secluded spots down here waiting to be discovered.
