Despite what its grandiose name may suggest, you are unlikely to find much luxury on any of the 17 floors inside Chungking Mansions. What you will find though, is some of the most authentic, eclectic and delicious food in Hong Kong.
First built in 1961 as a residential and commercial development, decades of traders, refugees and visitors passing through have turned Chungking Mansions into one of HK’s most concentrated populations of ethnic minorities. This vast mix of cultures has also resulted in a unique ecosystem of restaurants and hole-in-the-wall eateries that will delight your taste buds without upsetting your wallet (or stomach). With so much on offer, it can be overwhelming to choose where to go so here’s a list of the biggest crowd pleasers.
Bismillah Kebab House
Less than HK$50.00Shop 68A & 75, Chungking Mansions, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
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You don’t have to go far to find a decent kebab in HK but Bismillah kebab house is where you want to be for authentic Turkish doner and shish kebabs. They don’t cost a lot either. A large portion of chips (or salad) and a lamb doner will cost you around HK$80.00 (about the same for a cappuccino and sandwich in Starbucks). There’s other items on the menu too, including various pizzas where the lack of labels may mean you’re not entirely sure what you’re getting, but you can guarantee it will be delicious.
Ghana Locals
Under HK$50.00Shop 102 & 105, G/F, Chungking Mansion, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
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Proper African cooking, specifically Ghanaian cuisine is much harder to come by in HK than a kebab is, but start exploring Chungking Mansions and you may discover some hidden gems. Many of the African eateries in the building are unlicensed and unnamed so guests often need to be invited in by regulars, which makes it a tricky task to find a good spot. By comparison, Ghana Locals is easy to find and comes highly recommended. Expect homely dishes straight out of Ghana such as their famous jollof rice, fried plantain and beans or fried fish with akyeke (a staple made from cassava). The menu differs depending on which ingredients are in stock as does the option to have a beer.
Kamal Sweets
Below HK$50.00Shop 68B, G/F, Chungking Mansion, 36-44 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui
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A long standing favourite, Kamal sweets has been offering up their sugary and salty treats for over 28 years.
A prime breakfast spot, Kamal starts pouring its famous chai tea from 9am as well as other North Indian sweet specialities such as jalebi bread, pakora and carrot burfi. Its colourful storefront is hard to miss and it’s on the ground floor so you don’t have to venture too far to find some sweet eats.
Khyber Pass Mess Club
HK$50.00–HK$100.00Flat E2, 7/F, Block E, Chungking Mansion, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
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The Khyber Pass Mess Club may mislead you with its very basic interior but its authentic Southern Indian cuisine is famous not only within the Mansions but also across HK. Any of its curries are a must to try (especially the chicken madras) but the tandoori fish and beef kebabs are also standouts on the menu. The waiters here are used to numerous tourists passing through so are more than happy to recommend their favourites to you if you can’t decide for yourself. Curries will cost you between HK$80.00–HK$100.00 with meats from the tandoor averaging HK$100.00–HK$150.00 (more expensive than some spots in the building but still an absolute steal compared to elsewhere in HK).
Bismillah Fried Chicken
HK$50.00–HK$100.00Shop 75, 1/F, Chungking Mansions, 36-44 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui
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Bismillah Fried Chicken is perfect for those craving fried chicken but who want a more adventurous option rather than just stepping into the nearest KFC.
It’s not just chicken either. Grilled lamb, cod fish and beef are also available as well as curries and tandoori delights. Whatever BFC’s version of their secret mix of herbs and spices is, it has been winning the hearts of locals and visitors alike for almost three decades, so head there for lunch or dinner and go see for yourself what the fuss is about.
Syed Bukhara
HK$50.00–HK$100.00Shop 15 & 16, G/F, Chungking Mansion, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
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Malaysian cuisine is the ultimate example of cultural amalgamation with Malay, Indian and Chinese cultures coming together to create seriously delicious dishes. Syed Bukhara is the perfect place to seek out some of these classic high-quality Malaysian delights and at very attractive prices too.
The little restaurant’s clashing green and orange colour scheme hits you at the same time as the enticing scents wafting out the door do, so it’s hard to miss. Nasi Lemak, Masala dosa, mutton biryani and numerous other mouth-watering items are available in hearty, generous portions that will leave you feeling incredibly satisfied. What’s more, most dishes won’t cost you more than HK$80.00 which is some of the best value around for the amount you receive on your plate.
The Delhi Club
HK$100.00–HK$200.00Room 3, 3/F, Block C, Chungking Mansion, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
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If it’s Indian you’re in the mood for, then you’ve come to the right place. Chungking is overflowing with delights from all over India. Charming both regulars and visitors with its home-cooking for over 20 years, the Delhi Club has become one of the building’s permanent fixtures amongst the ever-changing landscape. Expect a massive list of chicken, vegetable, seafood and mutton curries alongside freshly baked naan (the cheese naan comes highly recommended) and grilled meats from the Tandoor. The Delhi Club is also one of the few venues to hold a liquor licence so you can wash your curry down with a cold beer or two.
